This Carmine Street institution is the highly praised bright light among neighboring restaurants, winning approval from both food critics and an 85-year-old Italian resident who won't eat anywhere else on the block. Rich Northern Italian pasta dishes and succulent meat entrées are served in a soothing pale-blue dinning room. Try the tender veal chop in white wine ($27) with roasted potatoes. 989-9494. Mon-Sat non-3pm, 5:30-11pm; Sun 5:30-11pm."

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